How to clean and protect suede and nubuck shoes
Protect suede and nubuck with a water-and-stain protector before the first wear and again after every deep clean. Brush dry in one direction to lift dust and revive the nap, treat stubborn stains with a little sneaker cleaner and a cloth, and let wet shoes dry slowly at room temperature, stuffed with paper.
The first time you wear a new pair of suede shoes, you notice how the light moves across them. Brush your hand one way and the colour darkens; the other way and it lightens. That soft, living surface is the nap. It is what makes suede beautiful, and it is the one thing you look after.
Good news: it takes very little. A protector, a brush, a cloth and a few minutes now and then. Here is the whole routine for our suede shoes and nubuck, from dust to rain.
Is suede hard to look after?
No, as long as you protect it first. Suede and nubuck don't like moisture, so the most important step happens before you ever wear them out. After that, it is mostly brushing.
Suede is cut from the underside of the hide and sanded to a velvety nap. Nubuck starts as full grain and is lightly sanded to a fine nap, which makes it a little more robust. Both are soft from the start, and both reward a little attention. You find them across our range, on sneakers, loafers and Chelsea boots alike.
What do you need?
A protector, a brush, a cleaner and a soft cloth. Our Deluxe Cleaning Kit brings together what we use ourselves: a cleaner, a protector, an odour spray, a brush and wipes, all safe on leather and suede. It asks for a little time: clean your pairs weekly and they stay yours longer. We keep refining the kit, the same way we do our shoes.
How do you protect suede before the first wear?
Apply a water-and-stain protector to a new pair before you wear it, and again after each deep clean. Cover the whole upper evenly and let it dry fully before you go out.
Protect it first. After that, it is mostly brushing.
How do you clean suede and nubuck?
Dry first, and gently. Most dirt lifts out with a brush alone.
- Brush dry, gently and in one direction, to lift dust and revive the nap.
- For stubborn stains, apply a little sneaker cleaner locally and lightly. Work it in with the brush, then blot with a microfibre cloth to take up the moisture.
- The outsole can take more: scrub it with the cleaner in small circles, without touching the upper.
- For the inside, use an odour protector and let the shoe air dry for at least two hours.
- Once dry, brush the nap back up and protect again.
Take the laces out before any deep clean, and skip household cleaners and the washing machine. After heavy wear, fresh memory foam insoles and a set of new laces reset the shoe.
| What happened | What to do |
|---|---|
| Dust and daily dirt | Dry brush, in one direction |
| A stain | A little cleaner, the brush, then blot with a cloth |
| A mark on nubuck | A nubuck eraser |
| Rain | Paper inside, dry at room temperature, brush the nap up |
| A dirty sole | Cleaner and small circles, away from the upper |
| Smell | Odour protector, then two hours of air |
What if your suede shoes get wet?
Don't panic, and don't use heat. Stuff the shoes loosely with paper to hold their shape and let them dry naturally at room temperature, never on a heater or in direct sun: heat dries leather out and cracks it. Patience is the whole trick: give it the time it needs. Once dry, brush the nap back up. The paper is there for a reason: it holds the shape while the leather dries.
Protected suede handles light rain; it is not made for heavy, prolonged wet weather. Our Chelsea boot story has more on suede boots and the weather.
How is nubuck care different?
Almost the same, with one extra tool. Protect it with a nubuck spray before the first wear and again every few weeks, brush it dry, and use a nubuck eraser for most marks. Skip wax, cream and wet cloths.
Over time, the colour of both will deepen a little with sunlight and wear. That is not wear and tear; it is a natural material doing what it does. Small differences between pairs and between batches are part of it too.
Our nubuck shoes come from an LWG Gold tannery in Portugal; they take in light instead of reflecting it, and look better on day two hundred than on day one. For the difference between all our leathers, read nappa, full grain, nubuck or suede; for suede loafers in everyday life, how to wear loafers. And the full routine for every material is in our care guide.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I protect suede?
Before the first wear, again after each deep clean, and every few weeks if you wear them often.
Can I clean suede with water?
Keep water away from the upper. Brush dry, and treat stains with a little sneaker cleaner, worked in with the brush and blotted with a cloth.
How do I dry wet suede shoes?
Stuff them loosely with paper and let them dry at room temperature, never on a heater or in direct sun. Then brush the nap back up.
What is in the Deluxe Cleaning Kit?
A cleaner, a protector, an odour spray, a brush and wipes, all safe on leather and suede.
Does suede soften over time?
Yes. Suede softens from the first wear and moulds to your foot within about a week.
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