Nappa, full grain, nubuck or suede: the difference, and why no two pairs match
Full grain is the top layer of the hide, left intact; nappa is full grain finished for softness; nubuck is full grain lightly sanded to a fine nap; suede is cut from the underside of the hide and sanded to a velvety nap. Smooth leathers wipe clean; nubuck and suede need protecting from moisture.
Run your hand over four pairs of shoes in a row. The first is cool and smooth, light sliding across it. The second is firmer, with a grain you can almost read. The third feels like the skin of a peach. The fourth gives under your fingers, soft and deep. All four are leather. All four ask something different of you, and give something different back.
Here is what each leather is, how it feels on day one and how it looks by day two hundred, so you can choose the one that fits your life.
What is the difference between nappa, full grain, nubuck and suede?
Where they come from in the hide, and how they are finished. Three of them start as the top layer of the hide; suede is cut from the underside.
| Leather | What it is | How it feels | How it ages | Care |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Full grain | The top layer of the hide, left intact | Firm, smooth, the strongest part | Marks, settles, gains character | Damp cloth, leather cream every few months |
| Nappa | Full grain finished for softness | Smooth and supple | Stays smooth; creases soften with care | Damp cloth, leather cream every few months |
| Nubuck | Full grain, lightly sanded to a fine nap | Soft, like a peach | Looks better on day two hundred than on day one | Protector, dry brush, eraser for marks |
| Suede | The underside of the hide, sanded to a velvety nap | Soft from the first wear | Settles to your foot | Protector, dry brush along the nap |
What is full grain leather?
The top layer of the hide, left intact. It is the strongest part. It marks, settles and gains character with wear. Our full grain leather shoes soften and shape to your foot as you wear them; the length stays the same, the feel becomes yours.
You find it on the LT 01 Essence White, the first shoe we made, and on the CB 01 Rugged 2.0, where it scuffs into something better than it started. On the MC 01 moccasin it marks first, then settles. Every mark is part of the story of the pair.
What is nappa leather?
Full grain finished for softness, so smooth that light runs across it. Our nappa is tanned mainly in Alcanena, Portugal, by an LWG Gold tannery. It flexes without sharp creasing, and it is soft from the first wear. Every leather shoe creases a little where the foot bends; that is part of how it wears in, and shoe trees and a little leather cream keep those lines soft. On the LT 03 Premium Nappa, it is simply our softest leather. See all our Premium Nappa sneakers.
What is nubuck, and how is it different from suede?
Nubuck starts as full grain and is lightly sanded to a fine nap. Suede is cut from the underside of the hide and sanded to a velvety nap. So nubuck is softer than smooth leather and more robust than suede.
Nubuck takes in light instead of reflecting it, which gives colour a depth that smooth leather doesn't have. It looks better on day two hundred than on day one. Our nubuck shoes come from an LWG Gold tannery in Portugal.
It looks better on day two hundred than on day one.
What is suede, and is it hard to look after?
Suede is soft from the first wear and moulds to your foot within about a week. Ours is tanned in Italy and Spain. It is not hard to look after, as long as you protect it before you first wear it: suede and nubuck don't like moisture.
Brush it dry, gently and along the nap, to lift dust and bring the colour back. Caught in the rain? Stuff the shoes loosely with paper, let them dry at room temperature, and brush the nap up again. All our suede shoes get the same care, and how to clean and protect suede and nubuck has the full routine.
Why does the colour of leather vary?
Because leather reacts like skin. Each hide takes colour in its own way, so shades can differ slightly per batch, and colour changes with sun and wear. We check for it. We can't remove it, and that's what makes it leather.
Before a single cut, each hide is checked on finish, colour, surface and thickness, and leather that falls short goes back to the tannery. Before shipping, every pair is checked for colour consistency, so left and right always match. Our nappa, suede and nubuck come from tanneries in Portugal, Italy and Spain certified by the Leather Working Group, most of them rated Gold. More on our leathers page, and on how they become a shoe in what "made in Portugal" means.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between nubuck and suede?
Nubuck is full grain lightly sanded to a fine nap. Suede is cut from the underside of the hide and sanded to a velvety nap. Nubuck is more robust than suede.
Is nappa real leather?
Yes. Nappa is full-grain leather finished for softness.
Which leather is the strongest?
Full grain: the top layer of the hide, left intact, is the strongest part.
Why is my pair a slightly different shade?
Each hide takes colour in its own way, so shades can differ slightly per batch. Left and right of one pair are checked to match.
Where is ETQ leather tanned?
Nappa mainly in Alcanena, Portugal; suede in Italy and Spain. Our tanneries are certified by the Leather Working Group, most of them rated Gold.
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