Smart sneakers: how to wear sneakers when the dress code says smart

Half past eight. Trousers on, coffee in hand, one decision left at the door. Not the shoes that make you look formal. The shoes that let you look like yourself, all day, wherever the day goes. More and more often, that is a sneaker. A smart one.

A smart sneaker is not a trainer that got lucky. It is a leather sneaker made to sit under tailoring: clean leather, a calm sole, a shape with nothing to explain. Here is what to look for, what to wear with it, and what you get when you do.

What makes a sneaker smart?

Three things: fine leather, a low and quiet sole, and branding you have to look for. Everything else is detail. The moment a sneaker starts to show off, it stops working with a trouser.

Start with white or black. White leather sneakers for men are the easiest under a trouser; black leather sneakers look the most formal.

That line is where we started. The LT 01 Essence was the first shoe we made: a low tennis line, a clean toe, a logo you have to look for. We have corrected it many times and redesigned it never. There is no big logo on our shoes, just a small square at the heel, for those who look closer.

The moment a sneaker starts to show off, it stops working with a trouser.

From there, two directions. The LT 03 Premium Nappa White adds structure: panels that give it shape, and our City sole, which gives it presence. The LT 01 Court Lite goes the other way: fewer panels, less stitching, nothing on the upper that is not holding the shoe together. It is the quietest sneaker in the line.

Which leather looks smartest?

Smooth nappa looks the most polished. Suede and nubuck look softer and more relaxed. All of them work; they simply set a different tone.

Nappa is full-grain leather finished for softness, so smooth that light runs across it. Ours is tanned mainly in Alcanena, Portugal, by an LWG Gold tannery. Full grain is the top layer of the hide, left intact: it marks, settles and gains character as you wear it. Suede is cut from the underside of the hide and sanded to a velvety nap, soft from the first wear. Every leather has its own story, and our leathers page tells each one.

What do you wear with smart sneakers?

A trouser with a clean line, colours that stay in the same family, and a top layer that does the dressing up. Start with the shoe and build from there.

The TP 01 Essence 3.0 is a good place to begin. It is woven in a mid-weight twill at 285 g/m², which gives it structure and lets it fall right. In this third version there is more room at the crotch and legs, and a better fall over the calf. Sharp enough for the office, easy enough for the rest of the day.

Let the trouser end on the shoe, not over it. A clean hem shows the sneaker and keeps the line long. At the weekend a heavyweight T-shirt or one of our oversized T-shirts for men takes the place of the knit, and the same shoes still work.

Can a loafer do the same job?

Yes. A suede loafer on a sneaker sole sits right between both worlds. The LS 01 is a loafer on top and a sneaker underneath, and that contrast is the whole design. Wear it to dinner, to the office and on the walk between them. Mediterranean suede, soft from the first wear, on our own sole, with enough give to walk all day. Our other suede loafers follow the same idea.

Will they be comfortable all day?

That is the point of them. Most of our sneakers stand on one of three soles from our own moulds, Court, City and Rugged, in a rubber blend we specified ourselves: enough give to walk on all day, firm enough to hold its shape. Inside sits a removable memory foam insole that softens to your foot, and most styles add a leather footbed.

Our sneakers have a Strobel construction: the upper is stitched to a flexible base before it meets the sole, so the shoe bends where your foot bends. Most of our sneakers are made in a family-owned atelier in northern Portugal, where a pair passes through at least 25 people, from the first check of the leather to the last look before the box. You can follow every stage in From hide to box.

Two honest notes. On the LT 03, the heel gets a little softer after a few wears. And wear socks, even no-shows: less friction, and the lining lasts longer that way.

How do you keep them looking smart?

A little care, often. When a smooth leather pair arrives, give it a light coat of leather care, and condition it every four to six months. To clean, dampen a brush with water and sneaker cleaner, work in small circles and wipe off the rest with a microfibre cloth. Let wet shoes dry at room temperature, never on a heater. The full routine is in our care guide. Wearing them with tailoring? Read how to wear sneakers with a suit.

Leather is a natural material, so shades can differ slightly per batch, and colour changes with sun and wear. That is what makes it leather. Start with one pair that goes with everything you own, then wear it everywhere. Our business casual edit is a good place to see it all together.

Frequently asked questions

Can you wear sneakers to the office?

Yes, if they are clean leather with a quiet sole and no big logo. The LT 03 and LT 01 sit as easily under a tailored trouser as under denim.

What is nappa leather?

Full-grain leather finished for softness. Ours is tanned mainly in Alcanena, Portugal, by an LWG Gold tannery.

Can I take the insole out?

Yes. The memory foam insole lifts out, so you can fit a fresh one or your own orthotics.

Do ETQ sneakers come in half sizes?

No, we only make whole sizes. Between two sizes, take the bigger one.

Where are ETQ sneakers made?

They are designed in our Dutch studio and made in family-owned ateliers in northern Portugal.